• The first article by Towner is a fantastic screencast he recorded, showing a very creative way to use Perfect Layers 1.0 to generate a custom photo layout/collage. If you've been waiting to get a sneak preview of Perfect Layers 1.0, look no further than Towner's post!

• Next up is a guest blog post by yours truly (Brian M) and is hosted by the ever-prolific Ron Martinsen. Ron had asked me to create a screenflow using several Perfect Photo Suite products to give a truly unique look to one of my images. Naturally, I went with a grungy UrbEx HDR photo and worked in some PhotoTools and FocalPoint love. You can check out the guest blog post on Ron's blog!

Thank you, Towner & Ron, for including us on your great blogs!

Here is the original photo that I shot back in January 2011.

Next, I took it into PhotoTools 2.6 Professional Edition and applied the Daily Multi Vitamin effect at 61 percent.

Next, I added the Creamsickle effect at 42 percent. If you're new to PhotoTools, one thing you'll quickly learn is that not all effects are intended to be used at 100 percent. Using the Fade slider is key to getting the right look for your images.

I shot this photo around 2:30 pm. Not even close to that desired Golden Hour where you get the beautiful, even light. So I added a touch of it with the Golden Hour Enhancer effect in PhotoTools at only 7 percent because for this photo, more than that felt like, well, too much. You can barely see the difference in this screenshot, but on my monitor when editing, I could definitely see it.

Finally, I wanted to add a bit of a dreamy quality to the photo, so I added the Deep Forest effect at 43 percent. This is a fantastic effect, but you have to watch how much of it you add to your photo. Too much and it completely kills the image. Get it just right though with the Fade slider and it's perfect.

Here's a final Before / After that you can view. Just move the slider to the left or right to see the original and the final image.

Last but not least, I saved the effect stack as a PhotoTools 2.6 Professional Preset that you can download and use if you'd like. Just click here to download the preset. You can download more presets and watch a short video on how to install them on the PhotoTools product page here.

Click here to download our 'Presets for HDR' Expansion Pack

We've also put together a quick video tutorial showing you how you can import these presets into PhotoTools, as well as share your existing presets with other PhotoTools users.

[flv:http://ononesoft.cachefly.net/content/video/PhotoTools-ImportExportPresets.flv 560 350]

All questions listed below are the exact questions that were typed into our webinar room. I may have edited a comment or two for spelling, capitalization or punctuation, but other than that, these are the questions that were asked. I've added some context in brackets to make it more clear to those who may have missed the webinar or don't remember the questions. All questions were answered personally by Brian, so please be sure to thank him!

41 questions answered after the jump.

Q: [With respect to using PhotoTools to stylize your photos] How important is the order in which the effects are applied?

A: There is no specific order or methodology that I follow regarding the order of the effects.  I usually have a base effect in mind and I grow from there once I see what the outcome is.

Q: [When shooting your brackets...] Are you only changing exposure in your bracketing or is it good to also change your focal point?

A: I only bracket by changing my exposure value, never my focal point.  The tone-mapped image would not look very good if you change your focal point or aperture in between brackets.

Q: Brian uses a tilt-shift lens a great deal. Is this absolutely required?

A: Tilt Shift lenses are absolutely not required whatsoever.  I use these particular lenses because of the perspective control that it affords me… and because they are ridiculously sharp lenses.  But, I often use my fisheye lens and every other lens that I own.

Q: Can Brian also talk to the equipment used as well as the background for UrbEx?

A: As far as the equipment used - I shoot with a Canon 5D Mark II and use a variety of lenses, depending on the effect or look that I am out to get.  Usually, you'll find me with a Tilt Shift lens mounted on.  I cannot stress the importance of a tripod, as well.  It is a requisite when shooting Urbex scenes because of the typically low light environments.  I use a Really Right Stuff TVC-23 tripod with a RRS BH-40 ballhead.  I use a Promote Control by Promote Systems to program my bracket sequence, exceeding the limitations set by Canon with a max of 3 AEB exposures.

Q: Is it safe to assume that Brian is using ALL natural lighting and no flash. It would seem flash would alter his effect, but wanted to check.

A: I do use all natural light when I shoot brackets.  The only artificial light sources used are the ones that are already present in the scene (ceiling lights, street lamps, etc).

Q: So a question on acceptance. Does Brian get "negative feedback" from those who may be more purists.  HDR is a love it or hate it technology, Brian extends that envelope further.  Can he talk to that aspect?

A: I don't get as much negative feedback as I used to, which is certainly welcome.   When I first started out in HDR, I produced images that were the scorn of many people.  I made every mistake that you could make (and still do).  But, I knew that I wanted to keep at it and have spent a lot of years working to gain a solid understanding of HDR. And during that process, I was able to apply a more realistic feel to the HDR look.  I always refer to good HDR as supplementing traditional photography.  When done effectively, it simply boosts portions of the image that the camera simply cannot capture in a single exposure.

Q: Can Brian share what equipment he uses for his images (camera, lens, shot with tripod, etc)?

A: You can see a full list of my gear on my blog or by visiting this link - http://brianmatiash.com/blog/gear/

Q: Can you give us some of the Apps you've used to find these locations...that list locations in Canada as well?

A: Sure.  There is a cool iOS app called 'Abandoned' that has a database of locations by region.  You can also visit the Opacity (http://www.opacity.us/) and Infiltration (http://www.infiltration.org/index.html) forums for additional resources.

Q: Curiosity: Does Brian enter old buildings and "forgotten" locations with permission of the owners? Does he talk to the owners prior to visiting a location? Or he just walks around entering old or forgotten sites?

A: Sometimes I am fortunate enough to get permission to photograph in these areas and other times I cannot obtain the necessary permission.  I do always make an attempt to seek out permission, though.  Regardless, I carry a pretty hefty photography insurance policy in the event that it is needed.  That usually puts people's minds at ease.

Q: Do you always have to use a tripod when shooting for HDR?

A: I use a tripod about 98% of the time when shooting brackets for HDR.

Q: Sorry but I missed what Photomatix is doing? Why not using Photoshop for doing that?

A: Photomatix is a tone-mapping application.  I use it as opposed to HDR Pro (in PS CS5) because I prefer its functionality.

Q: Do you use a spotmeter to meter the shadows and the highlights?

A: I don't use my spot meter as much as I used to because I find the camera's built-in meter to be extremely sensitive, but I do meter for highlights and shadows to get an idea of my bracket range.

Q: HDR n00b question here.  In a lot of HDR images, you see sort of a "blotchy" look - as if the shadows are bleeding out past where they ought to be.  Similar to an ambient occlusion render (in CGI terms).  You can see it after the Hollywood Intensity step in the current photo - but it seems to be prevalent across HDR photos in general.  What is this artifact, and how would one fight it?

A: I think a lot of these types of artifacts are due to several factors - namely, the photographer did not get the proper exposures in the bracket sequence to factor in shadows and highlights.  Secondly, it is likely that the photographer is not porperly calibrating their white and black points during tone mapping (along with some other stylistic sliders).

Q: How do the tools and effects differ when you are doing architectural for clients and urbex?

A: When I am processing HDR for commercial images, I am much more conservative with the overal 'strength' of the image.  But, I always collaborate with the person/firm that is contracting my services and if they prefer stronger HDR, then that is what I will deliver.

Q: How often do you use a tilt/shift lens in urbex?

A: I use my Tilt Shift lenses almost always - I just prefer the perspective control.

Q: Have you ever lost any equipment running from the cops and/or crackheads?

A: Luckily, I've never had to run away from any authorities.

Q: How do you get that onOne window in PS CS5? I hate using the File-Automate pull-down!

A: In Photoshop, go to Window > Extensions > onOne

Q: How does he manage blured motion using so many frames and such a low ISO?

A: I have a pretty rock solid tripod so my camera does not move during long exposures.  In the event of a moving element in the scene (leaves, cars, people, water), I'll selectively use the Ghost Removal Tool in Photomatix 4 or leave it in if it adds to the style and look.

Q: How important do you feel having equaly spaced bracketed files are?

A: It depends on the scene.  If I want less brackets, I'll space them out longer (ie 2 stops or more).

Q: How often will Brian use hsi colour checker during a shoot?

A: I use my ColorChecker Passport on every shoot that I go on.  It's the first shot I ever take at the beginnign of a shoot.

Q: How would you shoot HDR for portrait or wedding photography when you aren't able to capturre 9 images to create the image?

A: I wouldn't.

Q: I believe that you said you were using Canon glass but are you generally exposing at MAX DOField or more in the high mid-range of apertures. A lot of shooters I have talked to say that the higher mid-range is actually sharper than absolute far-end aperture.

A: Yeah, there is the common belief that a lens is sharpest when you are two f-stops down from the max.  I set my aperture based on the scene and look.  If I'm shooting a scene where I want everything in focus, I'll usually hover around f/16.  I always shoot at ISO100.

Q: Does Brian wear any type of breathing mask when going into these old buildings?

A: HA! I probably should.

Q: [When opening images from Lightroom...] is he opening the images as smart objects so it updates in in lightroom, or is he importing all these as new images?

A: I use the Photomatix Lightroom export module

Q: There are lots of HDR images that look very psychadelic and totally unrealistic. How do you draw the line in your processing between what looks "real" and what looks "fake"?

A: I always process to my taste and I encourage everyone to do the same.  I happen to like my HDR images to have more of a realistic feel but I really do enjoy stylizing my shots.  It is important to note the difference between processing an HDR with a realistic look and stylizing afterwards and processing an HDR with a more 'out there' look.

Q: Do you ever use ISO to change the exposure when you have to shoot fast? By turining ISO on Auto?

A: I never touch my ISO or Aperture during bracket sequences.  I only adjust shutter speed.  I always shoot at ISO100.

Q: I heard shooting in Manual is not always the way to go when shooting HDR brackets. I realize all of this is subjective....but what's your opinion on this?

A: I shoot in Manual because my Promote Control requires it.  However, I would shoot in Manual even if I didn't use the device.  I just prefer having total control.  There is nothing wrong with shooting in Aperture Priority at all.  As you said, it is totally subjective.

Q: I notice you use extreme wide angle lenses.  What range of lenses to you normally use?

A: I usually favor my 14mm Prime, my 17mm Tilt shift, and my 15mm Fisheye.

Q: Brian, in your landscape HDRs how do you handle that halo you get around some edges?

A: Haloes are predominantly caused by two factors - 1. not getting the appropriate brackets to cover the full dynamic range of the scene and 2. by boosting the light smoothing slider.  Both will enhance the appearance of haloes.

Q: Is there a minimum MP size photos to be converted to HDR?

A: Not that I know of.

Q: Is your experince that the more exposures you have the greater the sense of dimension?

A: It isn't so much the number of exposures that you get but rather ensuring that you get the right ones.  It is critical to ensure that you get exposures that give you proper highlight, mid-tone, and shadow details.  Not having this information will degrade your overall HDR image.

Q: Can I take advantage of HDR or the look of HDR with People and Portraits?

A: Honestly, I am not a big fan of applying HDR to people, animals, etc.  I just doesn't look right.  With that said, you could try masking out the actual skin of the people but it still often times ends up looking odd.

Q: What is a radiance file?

A: The Radiance file is the 32-bit HDR file that you tone-map from.

Q: [Brian mentioned....] 9 shot brackets -  full stop, 1/2 stop, 1/3 stop steps?

A: Typically - 9 brackets at 1-stop increments.  This usually affords me insurance brackets on the highlight and shadow sides.  It's not that often when I need to use all nine brackets.

Q: How do you find these places?

A: I usually use the web/Google Maps/Google Earth to get an idea of where I want to attempt to shoot.

Q: Why don't you use HDR Pro in CS5 - is it inferior to Photomatix?

A: It's not inferior at all.  I just prefer the overall functionality of Photomatix.

Q: Hardware question: What tripod does Brian use to set up shots? Plus CAN ONE use a monopod to shoot series f shots?

A: I use the Really Right Stuff TVC-23 Carbon Fiber tripod with the Really Right Stuff BH-40 ballhead.  I can't say enough about how much I love this system.

Q: Does PhotoTools keep an image with the effects on layers like in Photoshop so you can go back later and modify the effects. In other words, are the effects non-destructive?

A: Once you render the PhotoTools effects, they are committed to a [new] layer.  It is not currently possible to re-edit it. [Note from Mike: the original layer is left in tact and remains in your PS file by default so you can go back to that if you want to.]

Q: How do you decide what your first exposure is?

A: I audit the scene and try to find what is the best mid-range area.  I'll use that as my mid-point and bracket accordingly.

Q: I have a friend who shoots 1 raw shot. Then will import to photomatix and have the settings automate themselves to 2 over and 2 under. Is this true HDR?

A: Sure - I have used the same method of taking 1 RAW and creating virtual copies in Lightroom with adjusted exposures and tone mapped from that.  It is a perfectly viable way to tone-map, especially if you have way too many moving elements.

Q: What type of Wacom Tablet device do you use or recommend?

A: Intuos 4 Large

Earlier this week, I posted the recorded webinar to the onOne University so if you missed it or just want to watch it again, head over there now and you can watch it for free.

We're still working on getting all of the questions that were asked answered and when we do, we'll post them here on the blog. Thanks to all of you who attended and thank you also to our good friends over at X-Rite for co-sponsoring the webinar with Brian.

These print service providers are great if you don't have a large format printer or if you don't want to bother with putting the wrap together yourself. But if you do and are perhaps interested in how you might do this, onOne's very own Dan Harlacher has put together a 30 minute video that shows you how you can prepare your image using Genuine Fractals 6 for a canvas gallery wrap and then shows you the process that he goes through to make the wrap. You'll see the proper print settings, assembling the wooden frame and stretching the canvas.

Check it out, it's completely free and available to watch in the onOne University.

[flv:http://ononesoft.cachefly.net/video/phototools2/flash/PT2presets.flv 480 312]

[youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nvkwviwr0LE]

Truth be told, I wasn't very impressed with version 3.x of PhotoFrame.
onOne said they heard my feedback loud and clear and felt they had an answer to my complaints. With the 4.0 release, I can honestly say that they were right. They've come up with something that I'd actually use and I'm excited about this cool new product.

If there's one thing that keeps you honest and helps you improve your products, it's feedback. For example, we heard from PhotoFrame 3 users that it was hard to find frame content and some (okay, more than some) of the frame content wasn't all that useful. So we fixed it. Don't believe me?

Read this review of PhotoFrame 4 Professional Edition by Ron Martinsen.